Dates & locations

The two fields people come to a metadata editor for, and the two that are most painful to fix anywhere else.

Setting a date directly

Click DateTimeOriginal, CreateDate, or ModifyDate and a calendar with a time input appears. Precision goes to the second. Invalid dates are rejected before they can become a pending change.

Use this when you know the answer — a scan of a print marked July 1974, or a video whose real capture time you have from another source.

Shifting dates by an offset

Use an offset when the dates are wrong by a consistent amount, which is nearly always the case with a camera.

  1. Select the files you want to adjust.
  2. Click any date field, then Apply Offset.
  3. Enter the shift in days, hours, minutes, and seconds. Negative values move backwards, and you can combine units in one operation.
  4. Check the preview — it shows the exact resulting timestamp before anything is applied.
  5. Click Apply. The offset becomes a pending change on every selected file.
Why an offset beats setting a date

An offset moves every timestamp by the same amount, so the intervals between shots survive. Photographs taken twelve seconds apart stay twelve seconds apart — which is what keeps a burst in order, and a day's shooting in the sequence it happened.

Common cases

SituationOffset
Shot in Tokyo with the camera still on New York time+14 hours
Camera clock two days ahead after a battery swap−2 days
Body that has always run three minutes fast−3 minutes
Second body an hour behind the first+1 hour, applied to that camera's group

Group by camera first (see Grouping) and a mixed shoot becomes two clean selections, each with its own offset.

The whole offset is one undoable action: Ctrl+Z reverses it across every file at once.

Setting a location

By coordinates

Edit GPSLatitude, GPSLongitude, and GPSAltitude individually. Latitude is validated to −90…90 and longitude to −180…180, and the N/S/E/W reference fields are derived for you rather than being something else to get wrong.

On the map

Click the map preview in the metadata panel to open the full map editor, then click the spot. The marker and the coordinate fields stay in sync in both directions — drag the map, the numbers update; type a number, the marker moves.

By place name

Type a place into the search box — "Fushimi Inari", a street address, a town — and pick from the results. Results are navigable with the arrow keys and Enter. Search is debounced, so typing doesn't fire a request per keystroke.

Map tiles come from OpenStreetMap and geocoding from Nominatim, both free and neither requiring an API key. See what leaves your machine.

Copying a location to other files

Most photographs from one place should carry the same coordinates. Set one, then reuse it.

  1. Select a file that already has the position you want and choose Copy GPS.
  2. Pick a format from the dropdown — each goes to your system clipboard, so you can also paste it into a message or a spreadsheet.
  3. Select the files that need it and click Paste. Pasting to several files asks for confirmation first, and tells you which file the coordinates came from.
FormatExample
Human readable37.774900° N, 122.419400° W, 10.50m
Decimal37.774900, -122.419400, 10.50
Degrees / minutes / seconds37°46'29.6"N 122°25'9.8"W
Google Maps linkhttps://www.google.com/maps?q=37.774900,-122.419400

A paste transfers the complete set of GPS fields — latitude, longitude, altitude, and the reference fields — not just the two obvious numbers.

Pro

Pasting a location onto a multi-file selection is part of batch editing, which is a Pro capability. Copying, and pasting to a single file, work in Free.

Seeing several locations at once

Select two or more files with coordinates and the map switches to multi-marker mode:

Multi-marker mode is read-only on purpose — it exists for checking your work across a trip, not for dragging pins around by accident. Selecting a single file returns you to the editable single-marker view.